I’ve been in Bangladesh for ten days and here are some of the highlights.

(To see these and other shots, check out my photo sharing site on SmugMug, here).

At the top of the list comes the people. Honestly, I’ve rarely met an overall group of more welcoming and genuinely friendly people on my travels. Sure, I know people visit places and they say, “These are the friendliest people ever,” but in this case the Bangladeshis really are the friendliest people ever. I’ve lost track of how many people have bought me cups of tea and taken my photograph.

Only a few of the dozens of photos I’m in

People see me in the street, stop and stare in open amazement and ask to shake my hand and take a selfie. They all want to know where I’m from, what my name is and what I’m doing in their country. And they want to buy me tea, or a meal, or take me home to meet their families.

Initially I was suspicious of such warm approaches as it often happens in other countries (their neighbour India, for instance) that generous overtures are followed by invitations to visit shops or help with the cost of medicine for a loved one. But so far here in Bangladesh not one single person has asked me for anything other than my name and a photograph.

“What do you think?” Flower seller, Rajshahi. Merchants are all friendly.

They’re truly interested in my well being and make an effort to see whether I need help or assistance. I have a growing list of telephone numbers – “If you need anything, you call me,” I’ve been told.

Several people have bought me entire meals. One man bought me a brand new shirt from a shop across the street where we met. A woman gifted me 80 minutes of talk-time for my mobile phone, and one elderly man told me I was fantastic and kissed my hand.

Best of all, they don’t bug you. They approach, have an interaction, shake your hand, often buy you something, then wish you well and leave with a smile on their face. I’m very impressed, and it’s really made the trip so far.

Curious, friendly villager near Mahasthan

If that weren’t enough, the country itself is gorgeous. The villages and rural areas are lovely and green and tidy. People are cheerful and gentle when I meet them walking on the quiet roads out of town.

Typical scene in rural Bangladesh

A cauliflower lover’s paradise!

Hindu temple ruins, Puthia

I was expecting Bangladesh to be a slightly less developed version of India but Instead – at the street level anyway – it’s more organized, cleaner and more efficient. On paper India’s annual GDP is far higher than that of Bangladesh, but the GDP per capita of the two countries is much closer (Bangladesh at $1,518 compared with $1,941 for India). It’s hard to say for sure but it looks and feels, to me at least, that Bangladesh has the leg up in terms of civic order and day to day quality of life.

Horipir bridge over Padma River, Kushtia

All the rickshaws and tuk-tuks are electric (!!) and there are far fewer private cars on the roads than in India. It makes a huge difference to the air quality. The winter weather is perfect, rarely exceeding 28 or 29 by day dropping to 16 or 17 at night. There’s very little humidity.

I’ve been in the train twice but am getting around mostly in the bus. Seemingly hundreds of different private bus companies compete for business, and their drivers are all certifiable maniacs. They push their buses to speeds they’re not designed to travel, passing on corners, swerving around slower moving tractors and scooters. Most of the dilapidated buses look like something out of Mad Max.

Bus travel aside the country is wonderful. It’s no Monte Carlo, and it’s still messy and dirty by developed country standards and I’m well aware of some of the issues the country has with human rights, press freedom, corruption and political unrest, but the overall feeling for the visitor is that there’s an easy going vibe and things are calm and stable.

Walkers, Rajshahi

Another friendly group of well-wishers. This family lived alongside the tracks.

Bangladesh is predominantly a Muslim country, with Muslims claiming a little over 80% of the population. Hindus come in just under 20% and a few Christians and the odd Zoroastrian make up the rest.

Some women have their faces covered under a burka but the majority only have their hair covered. Many don’t wear any sort of covering at all. Women are approachable and as friendly as the men. I’ve shaken a lot of women’s hands and had conversations one-on-one with no problems at all. Many times a small group of 3 or 4 female students have approached me to talk and pose for selfies.

Village meeting, near Kushtia

I’ve been operating under my usual modus operandi: get to a town, find a room, eat then explore the surrounding countryside on foot. There are very few tourists of any kind in Bangladesh; I’ve not seen a single person here who doesn’t look brown. Apparently there are tourists here and there but not where I am I guess. It certainly explains why everyone is so surprised to see me.

Few cars and electric rickshaws help keep the air clear.

The food is good, though not as good or as variable as the stuff you get in India. I always try to go vegetarian when in India and I’m doing the same here. It’s a bit tougher though as essentially the entire population eats mutton, chicken and beef so I’m slowly growing tired of a similar sort of potato/bean/spinach curry for most meals. The breads however – naan, roti, paratha, puri – are fantastic, hot and fresh. Bangladeshis have a sweet tooth so their cakes, yogurts and syrup-based treats are excellent. Unlike Indians the Bangladeshis prefer their tea sweet with a little ginger but no milk. The country is cheap and hygiene standards are very reasonable (more or less).

Fish seller, Bogra market

Cool and hip fish seller, Rajshahi market

I’ve so far stuck to the west side of the country traveling north through the Khulna, Rajshahi, and Rangpur Divisions. I’m going to head to the very far north, to the border with India at the base of the Himalaya foothills, just a stone’s throw from Darjeeling, then I’ll about face and head south to spend a few weeks roaming around the rivers and deltas that Bangladesh is famous for.

Stay tuned!