Well, Mexico City continues to fascinate me. I’m not entirely surprised, as being fascinated was one of the main drivers in my deciding to spend 4 months here, but still, it’s rewarding. My neighbourhood, the Centro Histórico has been slowly revealing itself to me in better detail.

I know now, for instance, that Donceles is one of the more interesting streets in my hood, with its many used bookstores, small restaurants and odd little shops (like the place that only sells brushes).

Square and street in the old Centro Histórico

I know to avoid Cinco de Mayo and Madero because they’re too crowded with strolling pedestrians (tourists! Hrumph…). Allende has a bunch of bars that stay open very late, and the best place to buy a torta (sandwich) is from the man who operates out of a small window on República de Cuba.

If you’re feeling particularly urban and don’t mind sitting on a gritty bench in the narrow entrance to an apartment block you can buy a whole litre of Michelada beer from the older lady who sets up shop around midnight in an alley off República de Peru. And when you just have to have a grilled hamburger before bed the housewife who props up her little stall in front of the all night hair salon is your closest best bet.

Tinsmith’s shop in the Centro Histórico

I’ve also been spending a lot of time in the more tony neighborhoods to the west and south of the Centro, La Condesa, Roma, Tlalpan and the district of Benito Juarez. These areas are much newer than the old historic center having been built as Mexico City expanded in every direction beginning in the second half of the 19th century. Tlalpan way down in the south was until the mid 20th century its own little village where you still find cobblestone streets and a shady central plaza. Things are noticeably much quieter and slower, the air fresher.

These areas are very different from the blue collar urban madness of the Centro, with their tree lined streets, art nouveau mansions and funky art deco architecture and apartment buildings. Centro and those newer areas really couldn’t be more different, and it further strengthens my conviction that Mexico City offers a lot of variety.

Interested in strolling through half-crumbly streets to look at 16th and 17th century colonial buildings, eat fifty cent tacos and window shop for brushes? Centro is your best bet. Feel like admiring art deco architecture, drinking a latte and browsing for used vinyl or a new tattoo? Head to Roma.

Yoga class in the Viveros park, Coyoacán

I don’t have any photos of Roma and Condesa and that area in this post – I had some last time, and frankly find the other areas of town more photogenic.

I also spent a very pleasant day way down south in Xochimilco. That’s an interesting area! Most people head that way to ride one of the many trajineras, gondola-like boats you and a group of your friends rent to take you through the maze of canals and small river ways that still cover the area (while you eat and drink of course). I like the borough for its own sake. There’s a fantastic market and a very working class family vibe to the area.

Central plaza of Xochimilco

Xochimilco backstreet

Chicharrón for sale in the market – fried pork skin. High in taste, fat, and cholesterol!

Goat butchers, Mexico City market

My little apartment continues to be an excellent place to live. I managed to fix my washing machine all on my own (it leaked) and now turn out fresh laundry at a great rate, competing with the rest of the residents for laundry-line space in the courtyard. Happily the all night very noisy party on the first Saturday night I was here hasn’t been repeated. I know many of the local shopkeepers and housewives now by sight, and some by name. I’m eating most of my lunches at the tidy Fonda de Reynita one block from my front door. Thirty-five pesos (about C$2.50) gets me a lunch of soup, a plate of rice cooked in broth with little pieces of vegetables, a small but tasty main, fresh juice and as many hot tortillas as I can eat.

An unusually quiet Belisario Domínguez street, in front of my apartment

I’ve had a few visitors (you know who you are). I’ve enjoyed showing them the sights I know and finding new ones together. What’s keeping the rest of you?

“El Caballito”, statue of Charles IV of Spain, Tacuba street, Centro Histórico

Stay tuned!