A walk around Shikoku Island, Japan

There’s an interesting long distance walk in Japan on a route that follows 88 Buddhist temples scattered around the circumference of Shikoku Island known as the Shikoku Pilgrimage (四国遍路). For centuries walkers have made the 1,200 kilometer trek. Some do it for religious reasons, some for the peace and quiet, and others simply to explore the natural and cultural interests of the smallest of Japan’s four main islands.

Google Map Shikoku
Shikoku Island (red flag), the smallest of Japan’s four main islands.

Traditionally the pilgrimage was undertaken exclusively by reverent Buddhists and was always walked; these days the majority of visitors travel with an organized bus (coach) tour, or cover the distance in their own vehicles, but some still do it the traditional way and walk. There are no strict rules governing the pilgrimage, only that you should visit and pray at all 88 temples. Most pilgrims start at number one and continue in a clockwise direction until the reach the 88th, but a person could start in the middle and move counterclockwise. Many people visit 10 temples one year, ten the next and the next and so on until they’ve seen all 88. The important thing is to complete the journey.

I’m planning to start at temple number 1 and walk in a clockwise loop visiting all 88 temples over the course of around 50 days. I’ve built in a few rest days, and a few “extra” days in case I catch a cold or need additional rest, but basically I’m going to set off and try to walk between 22 and 30 kilometers per day until I’ve reached the end.

Screenshot 2017-09-20 at 09.10.47
Map showing location of the 88 temples around Shikoku.

Many of the temples have been gobbled up by cities and towns over the centuries, but most are still located in the countryside along the coast and in the mountains. Walkers and pilgrims stay at simple inns where dinner and breakfasts are included.

I wasn’t able to find a reliable source so don’t know for certain, but the number of foreign visitors who complete the walk each year must be very low. In fact, the number of walkers from anywhere who complete the entire circuit in one attempt is in itself very low, so if I can pull it off I’ll have collected some well-earned bragging rights. (The desire to own “bragging rights”, it should be pointed out, is more or less precisely what Buddhists are trying to avoid, and to rid oneself of the lust for desire and boastful behavior is probably one of the main reasons people embark on the pilgrimage in the first place. I ain’t Buddhist though, and will be happy to brag about it to anyone who might listen).

If you’re interested in reading more about the route’s fascinating history, click here.

Temple
Typical Buddhist temple along the route (NOTE: not my photograph).

I don’t think the journey warrants regular blog postings – “I walked and saw a temple today. I walked and saw more temples today. Today I walked and saw a temple…” – but I will post now and then at various stages along the way and will send up the odd Instagram photo here and there (Instagram: arjwilson).

Stay tuned!Henro kanji


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3 thoughts on “A walk around Shikoku Island, Japan

  1. This sounds so fascinating to me! And I ain’t no Buddhist either. I’d brag away. Stay safe. Wish I could join you but the teaching, kids, and broken leg all kind of hinder that. Good luck!

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    1. I’m going to take a photo of only one and then just publish it 88 times. You won’t know the difference…

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