Ghana – west towards Ivory Coast

I was almost done with Ghana and ready to move into Ivory Coast so traveled west to Sunyani, near the border. It involved a quick foray into the hectic chaos of Ghana’s second largest city, Kumasi. If you look up “crowded, chaotic, crazy African city” in the encyclopedia you’ll see a picture of Kumasi. There are parts that are calm(ish) and almost attractive with leafy green streets, but much of it – particularly around the bus stations – is madness. I was in an out of the city a few times to change bus and get money from the bank, and though it was always interesting I was happy to leave each time.

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The chaotic streets of Kumasi, Ghana’s second city

Kumasi is the de facto capital of the Ashanti region, so I was back in that neck of the woods for a few days, bobbing in and out of some of the little towns. Ejisu in particular is a pleasant place, calm and quiet with excellent walking and some atmospheric little bars for an evening tipple while watching British football (soccer) on the TV.

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Ejisu back streets. Asphalt was unusual, dirt was more common

One day changing buses in Kumasi I met a young guy named Kofi. He was selling pirated DVDs and CDs on the street for a Nigerian businessman who apparently was a crook. Kofi wanted to go to Canada, or the U.S. or the U.K. and grilled me in excellent English about how to go about getting a visa. I told him what I knew but also that it would be hard for him. “Why?” he wanted to know. “I can work hard at any job, I’m healthy and want to make a new life.” It’s an excellent question. I can’t count how many people like Kofi I met on my trip, people who would probably be excellent new citizens of our countries, hard working and honest and able to contribute.

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20 year old Kofi at the Kumasi bus station – smart, articulate, clever and desperate to leave Ghana

 

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West Africans are football mad and follow matches on TV – Ghana mostly supports English teams. Cost, 1.5 Ghana cedis = 40 cents

As I continued to move west the towns became a little more interesting, I thought, a little more compact with distinct centers and more evening street life. Street food isn’t a big thing in Ghana the way it is in the French speaking African countries, or in Asia, but towns and cities like Sunyani seemed to have a lot more, mainly grilled meats but also eggs and instant noodles, BBQ corn and soups. I was recovering from a temporary dose of “bad gut” in Sunyani and had decided to steer clear of dodgy street food, but I enjoyed strolling the streets at night watching the action.

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Curb-side breakfast in Effiduase – omelette sandwich with fat slices of bread and Lipton tea

Crossing the border into Ivory Coast involved first getting to Sampa, so I had one final bus station to navigate before abandoning all I’d learned about transportation in Ghana and learning new systems and words in Ivory Coast.

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Exploring the highways and byways of rural Ghana

Next week it’s into Ivory Coast.

Stay tuned!

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5 thoughts on “Ghana – west towards Ivory Coast

  1. My advice to Kofi, go to the countries you are interested in, see if you like them, experience life there and get to know people and see if its a good fit for you. Don’t pick countries just because you read something or someone told you about it. I did that and decided Canada was a good option. I also visited the US, not for me.
    I am sure Kofi’s country is nice, beautiful and with potential, but at the end of the day, one person can’t do much to change a country.
    Once you pick a country you really like, immigration becomes a simple step or at least doable if you prove to be a good person and have something good to bring to the table.

    My point of view.

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  2. Your comment on immigration is spot on. More open borders is one of the most effective ways there is to reduce inequality. The reason it is “hard” for Kofi is that there are a lot of people who don’t like people who aren’t like them, and vote for politicians who know that.

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    1. Yup, I agree. I’d like to see more immigration, but I’d also like to see people like Kofi have the chance to stay in his own country. People in developed countries tend to think immigrants from places like Africa want to come to our countries to get on the dole and get free health care and take advantage of the system. There are some immigrants like that, but the vast majority don’t want to leave their countries in the first place. They want safety and escape from poverty but would gladly stay in their own culture with their own families if they could. Who wants to leave everything behind and travel to a place they don’t understand and have to stay there permanently? In the meantime people with so much potential like Kofi are stuck in between, living in a lousy environment, unable to move to another.

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